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In 2013, the first meeting of the US League of Tea Growers took place at the World Tea Expo
in Las Vegas. Growers from Hawaii, Mississippi, California, and other
states joined together to discuss processing, share their knowledge of
tea husbandry, and recognize each other’s work. It was a great first
step for a young tea origin, and in the last few years, World Tea’s
classes, seminars, and gatherings have reflected a growing desire to
acknowledge the US as a tea origin. But for consumers, the questions
remain: “Where do we purchase US-Grown tea?” And, almost more
importantly, “What should we expect from it?” This country’s tea doesn’t
have much of a reputation, yet. Its main touting point is that it’s
local.
For the first time, US-grown tea will be rated with the
discernment applied to the rest of the world’s teas, but in a category
all its own.
November’s Tea of the United States Awards
(TOTUS), to be held in Volcano, Hawaii, hopes to change that. The first
competition of its kind, it will judge teas from Hawaii and a number of
mainland states, grown both commercially and non-commercially, in four
categories: white, green, oolong, and black. For the first time,
US-grown tea will be rated with the discernment applied to the rest of
the world’s teas, but in a category all its own. The results will set a
bar for consumers and growers, and ideally pave a path for a thriving
local tea industry with respected origin status.
America has a lot to bring to tea, not least of which is an array of
unique microclimates. In countries like Japan and China, cultivation
practices and techniques have been honed over centuries, but because tea
is young in the US, today’s farmers (mostly first generation growers)
are writing the manuals in their particular regions. As they sow the
seeds for future agriculture success, those growers also seek
recognition and governmental funding. Both are goals of the TOTUS
awards, and the TOTUS website.
“We hope that the website will be a resource for people to help
identify these teas, and so people can stay connected to these
tea-growing regions,” says Eva Lee, a tea grower in Hawaii and TOTUS’
executive director. While the winners will take home money—the top three
teas submitted by commercial growers in each category will receive cash
prizes—bolstering American tea’s image as a viable commercial crop
could be even more valuable, encouraging the federal government and
local governments to support tea agriculture the way they have in
Hawaii, where federal, state, and county governments have pushed tea as a
new specialty crop. TOTUS’ non-commercial winners (with yields of less
than five pounds per year) will receive certificates and name
recognition, a potentially valuable push towards stepping into the
commercial realm.
(Tea growing in Hawaii.
Photos courtesy Chiu Leong.)
The struggle for origin recognition is nothing new—look at coffee
packaging, or tea from other countries—but its importance in getting
consumer attention shouldn’t be undervalued. Though the judging could
get complicated with so many appellations in the US, Lee says TOTUS (and
its impressive panel of jurors) is well up to the task, and excited
about the impact the awards could have on the future of US tea.
“It’s a new crop for this country and like any new crop, it takes
time,” she says. “More and more, the US tea farmer understands that it
is more than just farming tea, that they have to step up and communicate
directly with the consumer. Demand keeps increasing; the more people
that grow tea the better.”
The TOTUS awards ceremony will take place November fourth. For more information visit totus1awards.com. —Regan Crisp is Fresh Cup’s associate editor.
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